Meeting Sybilla, an Avant-Garde Designer Whose Decades-Old Dresses Look Strikingly Now

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Meeting Sybilla, an Avant-Garde Designer Whose Decades-Old Dresses Look Strikingly Now
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In 2022, with the desire for skin-baring cutouts sweeping fashion, this incredible piece by Sybilla could easily contend as a dress of the year.

I’m facing a dress which is as close to a miracle as I’ve ever seen. It’s a composition of geometric and curvy black pieces, apparently held together by nothing but air. In 2022, with the desire for skin-baring cutouts sweeping fashion, this incredible piece could easily contend as a dress of the year. The only thing is that it was designed in 1991, by, the then 28-year-old woman who put Spain on the map of avant-garde fashion.

“Invisible Thread”—the title most obviously refers to the technique Sybilla invented to suspend her impossible-looking floating abstracts. How did she do that? Her technique defies detection even if you press your nose up against the museum vitrine—I tried. “Well, first of all,” she smiled, “I stitched them together with fishing line. Then my factory in Italy invented special ribbon which did it for me.

No wonder why—Sybilla’s range is astonishing, delightful, funny, and chic, and all of it completely relevant now. There are shapes with wired hems and padded curlicues; dresses which look like seed pods, runkled organic vegetables, or rocks. A fishing-net ‘sea-shawl’ has a haul of starfish stuck in it; a couple of flying birds cut in metal fasten a coat instead of buttons, and spiraling bra cutouts on a black dress look almost like a pair of snail shells.

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