“One of the coats was selected by Kanye West for Paris Couture Week, but it ended up not being worn,” recalled Paris-based designer Arthur Avellano. Kanye nonetheless purchased the coat and Julia Fox was spotted wearing it at her New York birthday bash.
Avellano’s foray into latex began began after he read “Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power” by director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT Valerie Steele, while a student at the Institut Supérieur des Arts et du Design de Toulouse . “What really impressed me was the heavy drape of this material, which you don’t normally see and that people are unfamiliar with,” he said.
A first runway show for spring 2018 and soon after, a presentation slot on the official Paris men’s schedule, had retailers like H.Lorenzo and Opening Ceremony come calling, drawn to his designs with a menswear slant. Other brands also came to Avellano for his expertise, like Balenciaga, with which he has been collaborating since 2019.
“Other than luxury houses, we have zero French private clients,” he said with a rueful laugh, explaining that up to 90 percent of his private clientele is in the U.S., putting the opening of a studio in Los Angeles on the cards. It would allow him to serve last-minute custom orders for entertainment and cinema. “And we’ve had our work retouched by competitors who end up ruining the item.”
Now that his name is starting to circulate, he’s attracting new talents and even specialists are coming to him to showcase their latest innovations, like 3D printing, molding or collage. “We realized that our material [latex] was put aside for very long because of its fetishist aura but if you take the time to work it, you realize that you can make widely wearable items — or haute couture.”
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