There’s nothing rank and file about designer Devi Kroell’s new line, Manufacture III.
Manufacture III Accordeon bagbecause it’s about working with artisans and very traditional companies that have been in their businesses for generations and know their craft and know how to make quality products,” explained the designer on a recent visit to theoffices. Just don’t call it fashion. Kroell considers Manufacture III a lifestyle concept with a difference.
The designer’s approach to Manufacture III is more in line with industrial design and applied arts than fashion design, which is consistent with her training. Kroell, who is Austrian, studied patternmaking and fashion design in Vienna with Helmut Lang. “We spent a whole year just making a men’s shirt,” she relates. “And we had to do it over and over and over again until it was perfectly done. It was just one year of frustration to get a men’s shirt really perfect.
Kroell might have a coolheaded approach to design, but her work—then and now—evokes positive emotional responses. Take her summer slip-ons of hand-knotted silk: The play of proportion makes them pop. Scale was also important when Kroell was making her new boxy accordion bag that has people stopping her on the street. “Obviously it’s inspired by document holders,” she says.
In keeping with her love of exotics, the bag is offered in alligator as well as calf leather. Both speak to Kroell’s commitment to slow fashion. “The decision that I took when I launched MIII was that I wanted to do things at my own pace,” she says. “My focus is not to offer a lot of things, but to use artisanal and traditional knowledge to make a quality product that can transcend time. It’s kind of my way of doing the whole sustainable thing.
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