Malaysia’s new wave chefs drive Kuala Lumpur’s culinary boom

KUALA LUMPUR: Netizens are expressing outrage over the small portions and high prices of meals at a school canteen, questioning the value for money.

Chefs prepare their dishes before service at a monthly supper club in Kuala Lumpur. -- -- Photo: Hadi Azmi/SCMP

“I was shocked. Four years ago, where was all this?” Sze said over a serving of hanwoo beef tartare flavoured with sambal hijau, a local chilli condiment typically served at Malay homes and restaurants. It is one of many similar set-ups that have spawned across the city, meeting a fast-growing demand for unique and more intimate food experiences that elevate the feted offerings of Malaysia’s famed nasi kandar and Chinese dai chow restaurants.

But last year, the Michelin Guide launched its first Malaysia edition, highlighting the diverse and vibrant food offerings of Kuala Lumpur and the northern island state of Penang, renowned for its rich food heritage and lively hawker culture. Despite this recent boom, Malaysia’s culinary journey of exploring flavours and techniques goes back at least a decade.

Teoh’s pioneering efforts helped pave the way for many others to broaden Malaysia’s culinary horizons and gain Michelin recognition, such as omakase-inspired Eat and Cook led by chefs Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi and open fire maestro Kahong Lau’s Atelier Binchotan.Julia Ung, co-owner of Jung+Co and organiser of the monthly supper club, said businesses are under increasing pressure as they contend with rising food prices and chronic staff shortages.

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