Our best advice: Make manhattans often and share them whenever you can.
, that veritable clown car of ingredients that demonstrates just how complicated cocktail trickery can get. Those of us who walk this peculiar path, professional fretters of mixed drinks, can often trace back their “aha!” moment to some singular, specific cocktail. In most cases it was a moment early in our career, when we tasted something so magical it points toward the upper limits of what a mindful bartender is capable of.
But then came the folks in vests, ties, pearls, and tattoos. We might be a cliché now—the passionate bartender of the early aughts could, it’s true, slip into self-parody—but in those days we could still pour a revelation. Cocktails, it turned out, could be transcendental experiences. It wasn’t just about making crummy booze palatable or getting blotto with something “red and tall.
He was only a few years older in retrospect, but he’d been around the block, with stints in clubs and bars, including one that was helping to rewrite the classic cocktail canon at the time. To me he seemed like a well-traveled journeyman, and no matter how consummate a bartender he was, the guy needed a bathroom break. And that’s where I came in.
The drink itself was extraordinarily simple, he explained to me early one shift before the first guests had trickled in. It has, after all, only three ingredients.
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