Here, a look back at the LouisVuitton fall 1998 ready-to-wear collection:
Editor’s note: This collection was originally presented in March 1998 in Paris and has been digitized as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document historical fashion shows.
In the 1990s many heritage houses got makeovers as fashion increasingly corporatized. The trials and triumphs of John Galliano at Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen at Givenchy, for example, have been well documented. Marc Jacobs also ended up in Paris at a storied maison, but his remit was different. He was tasked with creating something from nothing—a ready-to-wear collection for a leather goods and accessory company which had never had one before.
It so happened that Jacobs’s debut, for fall 1998, coincided with Martin Margiela’s for Hermès. The press dubbed this occasion “The Battle of the Bags.” In so doing they made more noise than either designer, both of whom went in for different variations on simplicity. Jacobs’s collection had an American in Paris vibe. There was almost a Puritanism to his spare shapes and limited palette.
Vuitton is a luxury brand—it’s functional, but it’s also a status accessory. I decided status would be done my way, which is to say invisibly. That means the Vuitton logo is embossed on a messenger bag, white on white. For me that’s what status is: It’s absolutely not about another century or about decoration in an obvious way. The idea that everything has to be the same in fashion, that everyone has to follow one trend, that there is one kind of status is wrong.
Also, I don’t think of Louis Vuitton as French necessarily. It’s international. I see Vuitton bags in airports all over the world. You look atmagazine and there’s John McEnroe in a white shirt, jeans, and a raincoat and carrying a Vuitton bag. That is the sexy, glamorous image of what Louis Vuitton should be.”
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