Gorditas, authentic al pastor tacos and a fermented corn drink called tejuino are just some of the tastiness that awaits.
On a recent Saturday morning, Alberto Eugenio Fabian of Tacos Al Pastor, a sidewalk eatery on Oakland’s Coliseum Way, shaves tender slices of scarlet-red pork from a flaming, pineapple-topped trombo, or spit. The taquero hacks off a slice of the caramelized fruit, which dribbles juices as it lands on the tender meat, and adds spoonfuls of cilantro, onions and fresh pineapple.
The Fabians — Alberto and his brothers, Al Pastor Tacos co-owners Raul and Hector — are just some of the many vendors who set up weekend stalls along this industrial strip. It is particularly lively on Sundays, when you might spot strolling musicians or dancing couples. Cars are often double-parked, and as many as 20 vendors pack the sidewalks.
Assembling a trombo is complicated, Raul says, and requires meticulous layering of the tenderest cuts. When done right and monitored constantly, the buttery fat drips down, gets blasted with the flame and chars the meat, yielding that ethereal, almost-crunchy texture. The chicken , served quartered, half or whole, comes with rice, slow-cooked pinto beans, two salsas and curtido de habanero made with cucumbers and onions. Don’t miss the tortillas which are handmade by El Pollo Alegre’s Paola Tibular, who cooks them on the flat-top grill until they puff up to perfection. On a busy day, she’ll go through about 130 pounds of masa to make 1,000 tortillas. Look for the stall from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday.
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