See inside Fort Defiance's new — and bigger — space, just up the street from the original in Red Hook
Inside the market and café. Photo: DeSean McClinton-Holland When St. John Frizell opened Fort Defiance in Red Hook in 2009, the small tavern’s casual vibe, standout brunch, and excellent drinks made it an instant hit in the neighborhood and a destination for curious diners. Last year, Frizell converted Fort Defiance into a general store, selling produce, to-go cocktails, and other necessities for pandemic-era living.
There are some comparable other businesses: Any bodega or deli that has a restaurant squeezed in, like La Esquina Del Camaron Mexicano, does something similar, though not necessarily “gourmet.” The Bushwick store Foster Sundry is maybe the closer, daytime analog, offering beer, cider, and wine on tap alongside its menu of sandwiches. And Mekelburg’s in Clinton Hill offers a curated selection of grocery items upfront, along with a bar and caviar-topped baked potatoes in back.
Frizell says he considered having an on-site butcher, but ultimately went in a more plant-forward direction, instead investing in a bakery setup. His chef Aaron Taber has some experience baking bread, though Frizell says the idea for including a bakery came from a friend’s sourdough bread, which they started selling in the store. At the new shop, they’ll have homemade bagels alongside country and Pullman loaves, English muffins, and baguettes.
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