A designer pursues studies in drapery outside of the fashion system
Fashion can sometimes feel like a bad romance—maybe especially for independent designers like Anne Karine Thornbjørnsen who compete against the industry Goliaths. Finding herself with two feet, as she put it, instead of one in a system that didn’t work for her, in 2019 Thornbjørnsen shut her London-based business and moved back to Norway, living first in Oslo and now further out on a farm.
It’s probably the most nonabstract of all of them. It’s a very clear nod to the classic as well, very Grecian, and where my inherent interests in drapery came from—very Grecian goddess-y and related to the body.Photo: Courtesy of Anne Karine Thorbjørnsen and SalgshallenNot at all. It’s completely ridiculous and part of the massive anxiety [I had] pre-exhibition because the folds would collapse in rain.
Clothes have so little value today. It’s so cheap, most of it. The saddest place to walk into is Primark, for example. You just look at all the clothes on the floor, and people are just stepping on it, and it’s just awful. People don’t think about all the hard work that goes behind it—even a cheap T-shirt from Primark. Everyone is always trying to hassle the price, for example, when I had personal sales.
I think that the whole influencer [phenomenon] and Instagram is building up on that, so [fashion] looks so silly to many people, and it looks so frivolous and privileged. That side of fashion, I don’t really connect with; I think that’s vacuous and boring. That’s the product side of it and product placement and branding and all of that.
I needed to take a break and be able to work with it freely, without the restrictions of clothes and products and the whole fashion circus because I felt so stagnated for so long. I got stuck in a system. I always wanted to be one foot in and one foot out, but I found myself with both feet in, and it wasn’t my place. I found it really hard to move away from fashion because the system also gave me walls that I could spar with and that placed me somewhere.
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