This Mexican restaurant in Boyle Heights celebrates the Pre-Columbian triad of corn, squash and beans.
“A lot of customers don’t believe me when I tell them we don’t have rice,” owner Deysi Serrano told me recently. “There is pressure as a restaurant to serve what we’re used to eating. But it’s not necessarily what our ancestors used to eat.
Serrano, whose professional background includes sales and graphic design, partnered with co-owner Dan Torres with the aim of paying homage to the past, but also bringing more healthful and affordable food to the neighborhood.Milpa Grille is not alone in its mission; L.A. kitchens like Alchemy Organica and Todo Verde have also been re-centering Mexican cooking around pre-Columbian ingredients and dishes. In doing so, these restaurants are reshaping what we mean by “traditional” Mexican cooking.
is a thick, herb-green soup flush with smoky pasilla chile and cilantro, every spoonful vivid with crisp, fleshy corn kernels. Elotes — long, plump ears of whiteof butter and cotija cheese jolted by a dusting of Tajin.
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