For their latest show, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons played with oddness in crisp tailoring, straightforward denims and clean fetish leathers.
lean into a decidedly more wardrobe-focussed state-of-mind, offering quietly innovative riffs on piece you either already have in your wardrobe, or have seen plenty of out in the world at large. Opening with slim, single-breasted black wool suits and closing with light khaki gabardine car coats, this was a collection that celebrated “simplicity as a concept, as a choice,” as Miuccia put it: “clothes that people could really wear, but with an impact.
Staples such as boxy gingham overcoats, blue denim separates, and striped crewneck pullovers – knitted in varying combinations of fine chocolate, scarlet, rose, lemon, cerulean, mint and lime yarns – lacked pretence, but the simplicity of their effect belied the complex series of choices it took to produce their desired impressions.
And indeed style – or rather styling – choices, were once the key means by which the ostensible normality of the pieces was cleverly skewed. In isolation, the instinctive associations you’d have of most of the garments would be pretty innocent, or even humdrum. Recontextualised and reimagined in new fabrications, however, they tapped into new nexuses of meaning.
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