A devastating earthquake only further underscored the importance of working with rural communities in propelling the kingdom to culinary heights.
Royal Mansour Marrakech is a luxury hotel fashioned after a sprawling medina. On Sep 8, 2023, the serenity of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco was shattered. The devastating 6.8 magnitude earthquake left a trail of destruction, ravaging ancient buildings and disrupting the agricultural heartbeat of the region. Local staples like figs, olives, saffron, navel oranges, and dates were suddenly cut off, threatening livelihoods and the culinary fabric of the nation.
Six months later, we saw a vibrant recovery in progress during a visit. Royal Mansour now also serves as a linchpin in the advancement of the local and national gastronomic scene, exporting its culinary ideas through its restaurants and even a cooking school. And it’s doing all this by working with rural growers and prioritising local produce — thereby aiding the country with a smooth recovery and helping the agricultural community it relies upon find its feet.
These were conceived under the direction of decorated French chef Helene Darroze who has multiple Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, London and Provence. Since August 2023, she has led the transformation of La Grande Brasserie at Royal Mansour, injecting French savoir faire into the menu and service while maintaining a deep respect for Morocco’s farmers and growers.
“I draw inspiration from my ancestors’ traditions, bringing them up to date, without ever compromising them,” he said. “I am proud of my heritage and of the Moroccan terroir richness that I try to enhance through reformulated old recipes.” Indeed, each course was easily the highest expression of Moroccan cuisine. Fish, served whole which seems so far removed from the arid environs of Marrakech, was deliciously fresh, and succulent. Prawns which came in a petite bowl with onions and tomatoes had a crunchy bite and redolent of the sea. These came from Agadir, said the server, a major city that sits on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, and the herb garnishes were grown from the hotel’s very own gardens.
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