Our wine columnist sits down with the creators of some exceptional new Napa Cabs.
It’s an alliance of two immigrant families. The Simons are from Iraq, the Koschitzkys from Israel. Over a lineup of new Simon Family wines recently, Sam Simon and Maayan Koschitzky—who lovers of great Napa bottles know as the director of winemaking foracclaimed winemaking group Atelier Melka—spin their very separate family stories.
Sam Simon’s story begins in the Armenian genocide of the early 1900s, in which his grandfather lost his entire family, surviving only by escaping across the border from Turkey into northern Iraq. There, Simon’s father grew up and built a thriving shoe-manufacturing business, even supplying boots to the military. But a successful Armenian Catholic was less than welcome in Iraq, and under threat the family was forced to decamp to Lebanon, empty-handed.
As the stories continue to spool, we begin tasting and the beauty in our glasses is, on one hand, a disconnect with the struggles my phone is still recording. On the other, it’s both product and promise of cross-cultural collaboration, or as Nada Simon says, “making the most of all of our cultures together—Iraqi, Israeli and American.” First up, theindulges Nada’s taste—“summer water,” she calls it.
, from old, dry-farmed vines, is complex, expressive and mouth-fulling. Wet-stone minerality and a touch of flint balance high-soaring white blossom and citrus aromas over an interplay of stone fruit and grapefruit.
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