In my family, there’s no better accompaniment to matar paneer and puri than jammy cranberries.
My Thanksgiving bears very little resemblance to the scene you’ll find on the cover of a glossy food magazine. There’s no hulking turkey at the center of the table. No undulations of snowy mashed potatoes. No assorted vegetables studded with bacon. There is, however, always cranberry sauce.
My mom grew up near New Delhi, so she had few preconceived notions about what Thanksgiving was supposed to look like. She prepared the kind of food she would serve at any dinner party in the fall: matar paneer, redolent with cumin, ginger, cardamom, and coriander seeds; butternut squash sabzi stewed with brown sugar, fenugreek, and tomatoes; chhole, or spiced chickpeas, cooked with cinnamon sticks and cloves until the whole pot smelled of the holidays; and puri, hot puffs of just-fried bread.
So at the last minute my mom dumped a bag of frozen cranberries, some white sugar, and orange zest into a saucepot, cooked it down, and put it in the freezer to thicken up quickly. Nothing fancy. Sometimes my mom will try to omit the cranberry sauce, saying she wants to cut down on leftovers . But no one in our family will let her.
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