Here, in a paper-thin egg roll wrapper, is the tension at the heart of culture, cuisine and commerce in the U.S.
"The South Pacific was already a source of American fascination in the 19th century in the novels of Robert Louis Stevenson. In the early 20th century, the music of Hawaii became very popular and the inspiration for many Tin Pan Alley songs. Donn helped create a fantasy world that was not centered around any one place but, rather, centered around the notion of escape at a time during the Great Depression when people could not afford to travel. It was mysterious, exciting and glamorous.
"It's totally kitschy and a little cheesy, which I love," says chef Bryant Ng of celebrated Southeast Asian restaurantin Santa Monica."That's the soul of it. It's playful and it doesn't need to be that serious. I think that maybe, if you interpret it incorrectly, it becomes something super serious and then you lose that fun, jovial part of it."
Ng points out that a lot of people who opened restaurants in the U.S. had worked in other careers and trades in their home countries. Pauline's brother Jack Chau was the chef. Another brother, Sunny Chau, had gone to bartending school in Hong Kong so he made elaborate tiki cocktails like the Zombie, the Fog Cutter and the Shark's Tooth. Pauline's favorite was the Scorpio, which she describes as"a tweaked version of a Tiki drink that came in a big seashell with gardenia petals floating on top and was big enough for two to share.
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