How a Renowned Japanese Chef Is Bringing French Bistronomy to New York’s Tribeca Neighborhood

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How a Renowned Japanese Chef Is Bringing French Bistronomy to New York’s Tribeca Neighborhood
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Chef Mitsunobu Nagae has worked in some of the world's best restaurants. Now he's launching his own—and with Michelin ambitions.

“The idea is you have the pedigree, you have people [in the kitchen] who have the technique and the cooking skills, but it’s a much more relaxed environment,” Nagae said through a translator. “It’s a less stuffy atmosphere; you don’t have to put on a jacket to go eat. People are very comfortable but still getting a very elevated experience.

“Just out of a pure desire to help, I asked him to cook for my family once a week and down the road for my friends, at our apartment,” Saito, who also served as Nagae’s translator for this interview, said. “That’s how it all started. He cooked for us for several months and we started discussing how he creates dishes, how the costs work, everything else. And ultimately, the question was, ‘Would you like to do something on your own?’ And that started this endeavor.

“The biggest influence is my co-workers who I’ve worked with so far,” he said. “Some people are from Mexico, Paraguay, Russia, all sorts of places. And when you’re in the kitchen, they come up with very interesting ideas.

In Chef Alain Passard’s original version, the lobster was poached à la minute and was served with a honey dressing. Then Chef Alain Verzeroli modified the concept, turning it into a turnip-lobster ravioli. Nagae’s take includes lobster standing on its own, surrounded by buttered turnips, a honey-vanilla sauce and a citrus mousse.His desserts include fresh strawberries and lychee with rose and shiso leaves, and chocolate sorbet with hazelnuts.

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