Jonathan Ray, author of the encyclopedic guide 'That's the Spirit,' shares his favorite whiskies, liqueurs, grappa and more.
We spirits-lovers have never had it so good. We are in the midst of an apparently unstoppable gin revolution and on the cusp of what I predict to be a similarly irresistible rum revival. Sales of fine whiskey, cognac, tequila and vodka are also soaring, craft distilleries are popping up all over the place and our collective thirst for classic and quirky cocktails shows no sign at all of abating.
Balcones, Brimstone Texas Scrub Oak Smoked Corn Whisky BALCONES BRIMSTONE TEXAS SCRUB OAK SMOKED CORN WHISKY QuadrilleWhen I worked at Berry Bros & Rudd in St. James’s Street, London, all those years ago, scores of tourists would visit us. They loved the fact the company had been founded in 1698 and was still family-owned, and that the wood-paneled shop had barely changed over the centuries. They would stare at us as we sat in our pin-stripes at vast desks writing orders out in long-hand.
The chocolate-box-pretty buildings around me were bedecked with flags. There was the familiar Swiss flag and the unfamiliar Appenzell flag, which I could now see displayed the canton’s coat of arms, that of a large black bear on its hind legs with red claws and – I don’t know how else to put this – a monstrous red erection. It was impossible to miss.
The label even has a picture of the aforementioned bear, although this time he’s coyly hiding his, erm, excitement behind a well-placed heraldic shield. They distil all manner of fruit there, producing exceptional, richly scented, colourless spirits that make superb digestifs. If you’ve not had eau-de-vie de mirabelle or quetsch , coing , framboise , fraise or Poire William you’re in for a real treat.
We drained glass upon glass of Pousse Rapière before we inductees were introduced to the body of the hall with flaming torches and a brief biography. A sash of royal blue, complete with enamel cross, was placed around my shoulders; I signed a leather-bound register and received a parchment and a spirity kiss on both cheeks in return.
When I worked at Berrys’, I remember that we once had sixties popstar Adam Faith to lunch. We were trying out a new cook and she was anxious to impress and insisted The ten-strong team at Combier make many fine spirits such as the original triple sec, a fabulous cherry liqueur and several excellent, this’ll-put-hair-on-your-chest absinthes. They’re rather baffled by the kummel, though, since nobody in France appears to drink it.
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