After a two-year Cast Away-style sabbatical from 15 years of cooking in Dallas’ most elite kitchens, comeback chef Ross Demers has at last opened his second...
By contrast, lots of “thank yous” can be overheard at Cry Wolf’s chef’s counter seats, the last four seats at the bar that lend a view to the wood-burning parilla acquired from acclaimed Oklahoma City restaurant,At Cry Wolf, the parilla is used for cooking one of Demers’ favorite dishes, the grilled razor clams with charred scallion gremolata. “It’s just so simple, like two ingredients,” Demers says.
What Demers still does not know how to do after all these years is how to price a menu or be consistent. “If I’m getting reviewed on consistency, I get no stars,” he says again with contagious laughter. “If you came in here two weeks ago and the snapper had a little more sauce on it, that does not define who I am as a chef, by any means.”
“It’s 2022,” he points out. “If I can get black trumpet mushrooms overnighted from Oregon, and they’ll be at Love Field by noon… having black trumpet mushrooms is way cooler than not having black trumpet mushrooms.”
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