For the Best Candied Yams, Make a Proper Syrup First

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For the Best Candied Yams, Make a Proper Syrup First
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When properly executed, candied yams should be silky, tender, and balanced in flavor.

Oversweetened sweet potatoes get a lot of flak. If you don't believe me, go take a look at the comments on my article about. A glutton for punishment, I will wade into this controversial zone again, this time with the classic Southern dish of candied yams, which are not yams at all but sweet potatoes...in an intensely sweet sugar sauce.

These incredibly sweet sweet potato dishes don't have to be cloying; they just need to be made more thoughtfully.Let's start with the most basic fact about this dish: Although they're commonly described as "yams," which are native to Africa and Asia, the root in question here is actually the sweet potato, native to the Americas.

I also played with both low- and high-temp par-cooking approaches, since we know that holding sweet potatoes at relatively low heat—between 135 and 170°F —. Once again, whatever was gained by using that method was overshadowed once the syrup was added. I suspected that I needed to increase the amount of water in my sugar syrup, but I also knew that I work with pastry wizard, who's far more knowledgeable about candy syrups than I am. She could help get me to a good answer a lot faster than I could merely through trial and error. So I asked her—what gives, and do you think more water will fix this?

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