Lunch and dinner at Olive & Grill are both wonderful, for different reasons, says restaurant critic Merrill Shindler.
Directly across the street from Art’s, concealed down a driveway running north of Ventura, there’s a doorway into what can be, depending on when you open it, an entrance into an alternative reality — a Middle Eastern restaurant right out of Central Casting.is unexpected on just about every level. The sign on Ventura is small, unobtrusive — though the onion domes on the building are as curious as could be.
As are some of the seriously eccentric house cocktails. The one that stands out to me, for obvious reasons, is The Yerevan, named for the capital of Armenia. It’s described as, “A cognac based black Manhattan with a split base of a banana infused Amaro and Carpano Antica sweet vermouth. With a dehydrated banana chip for good measure.” It’s a distant cousin of a classic Manhattan, which is made with rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, butters and a cherry garnish.
With enough fun in the air, it feels a bit like a Middle Eastern bar mitzvah with better food than chicken Kiev and a t-bone for dinner. Eat enough food from the region, and you may feel that you know all the cuisine has to offer. But Olive & Grill pushes that knowledge, with dishes rarely seen anywhere else in town.
Lisanat is boiled beef tongue flavored with garlic, lemon juice and Aleppo peppers. The yogurt labni — a dish that tastes so good for you — comes flavored with peppers and jalapeños, and with thyme and olives, as you wish. It goes especially well with the freshly baked Megruli Khachapuri bread, layered with mozzarella. And with the lahmajoun bread, served with either ground beef, or mushrooms and peppers.
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