First look: Houston gets glossed over in Top Chef's first episode, but city's chefs shine

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First look: Houston gets glossed over in Top Chef's first episode, but city's chefs shine
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Top Chef Houston Episode 1 review: Local chefs come out to play, the city does not

in a vivid orange jacket. All of them contributed savvy commentary as they worked through 15-count-them-15 beef courses. Which, as someone who has judged numerous barbecue cook-offs, I know is 12 too many.

Certainly the Team Challenge seemed diabolical, if not life-threatening. The chefs drew big knives numbered 1, 2 or 3. Then came a fateful scramble to assemble themselves in groups of three, so that each group had three different numerals in it. One step in the wrong direction, one look the wrong way, and your fate might be tied to the weakest links rather than the strongest.

Sam Kang, the dimpled guy from the Momofuku empire, strode purposefully though the chef stations while others ran about frantically. It made his teammate Luke Kolpin — he of the eight-and-half years atno less — nervous. But Sam confided in a voiceover to the camera, “You can taste crazy in food.” I took an early interest in Buddha Lo, too, the Australian-born chef who’s gone from his family’s Chinese restaurant to 3-star Michelin postings in London and New York .

OK, there had been some throwaway foreshadowing, when Robert asked Evelyn if we cooked a lot of beef here in Texas. She told him her dad was a rancher, and a photo of the two of them with a butchered haunch of cow popped up to one side, but that was it. No source information, no nada, just beef on a table.

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