KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 1 — Over the last few years, Back Alley Pasta gained a cult-like following, becoming one of the hippest and most exciting pasta restaurants in Kuala Lumpur,...
KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 1 — Over the last few years, Back Alley Pasta gained a cult-like following, becoming one of the hippest and most exciting pasta restaurants in Kuala Lumpur, thanks in no small part to former founding chef Jay Irwan .
The space opens with a few tables for larger groups, while the rest of the seating clings to the left, running alongside the central feature: a long concrete bar, behind which the magic happens. Several crowd favourites return, including the quinoa arancini and charred cauliflower in the small plates section.It was clear why the latter is popular: smoky florets of cauliflower covered in a generous snowing of salty pecorino romano, sitting on a healthy smear of pesto diavolo for added oomph and warming heat.
Onto the pasta section, where we sampled three dishes. The best was the pork collar , grilled and served with thick. Another smear of pesto diavolo – a signature at this point – came on the side.It paired wonderfully with the charred, meaty pork, but thewas the real star. The fermented lemon butter added a tremendously savoury, tangy intensity that carried the whole dish.speciality in a spiced pork ragu and topped with pickled shallots.
Don’t get me wrong – the pasta itself was excellent, and so was the fish, but they really got in each other’s way. The sweet, slightly smoky flavours of the romesco and shoyu on the fish, with slivers of, demand so much of your palate’s attention that the milder cherry tomatoes and garlic in the pasta end up getting overshadowed.
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