First Look at Phoebe Philo's New Signature Collection

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First Look at Phoebe Philo's New Signature Collection
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Her carefully calibrated clothes and bags, with slyly subversive elements, are to go on sale from today on her online store – in limited quantities.

The most anticipated collection of 2023 was finally unveiled to press last Friday during one-on-one appointments in a bright, airy London showroom, with clothes hung on racks and jewelry and accessories displayed on tables.was not physically there, but her inimitable fashion handwriting was. The collection embodied her penchant for luxurious fabrics and impeccable make, unexpected flourishes via volume or texture, and womanly silhouettes with a modernist touch.

There was a perfume of early Martin Margiela to some of the bold and inventive tailoring and dressmaking. The jewelry was a standout, and included a chunky necklace with the repeating word “MUM” in 23 carat gold, a reference to motherhood – or perhaps to the quiet maturation of this collection. “As part of our determination to address overall environmental impact, our focus is on the material issues of over-consumption, waste and the fashion supply chain. Our aim is to create a product that reflects permanence,” the fashion house said in a brief statement of bullet points.

It comprises 150 styles, with the first of three deliveries the most significant in size. The second edit, A2, will arrive in spring 2024. At the time, she vowed to create clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality” and design.

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