Three Filipino restaurants will be represented at the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards ceremony on June 5 in Chicago. In the culinary world, these awards are the equivalent of the Oscars.
“Being able to amplify and showcase stories about the Filipino American culture, the communities here, specifically in the Northwest, and really the immigrant story that my parents came with ... I was just very humbled to be able to have the opportunity to showcase what the sacrifice was and be able to represent the region in that way,” said Verzosa, who is up for Best Chef: Northwest and Pacific.
All this recognition is welcome praise for a cuisine that has historically been stifled by colonialism and a general lack of appreciation. These chefs are part of a younger generation giving voice to the Filipino American experience through the language of food. Bugtong doesn’t worry about whether something is unconventional and outside the usual traditions of Filipino culture.“Does it represent me as a Filipino American? Then the second thing that I think about is, ‘Is this approachable to other people? Filipino or otherwise?’ And then I think of a composition that makes it aesthetically beautiful.”
Verzosa grew up on a diet of PBS and Food Network cooking shows, as well as the cooking of his father, aunts and uncles. “I did stuff with Betty Crocker and thought I was bad***, like substituting milk instead of water,” Bugtong said, chuckling. Yet Filipino restaurants make up only 1% of US restaurants serving Asian food, according to a Pew Research Center analysis released earlier this month.
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