The name 'Baja Sub' might not immediately scream 'great Sri Lankan food,' but guess what? It's got it. Isn't L.A. great?
As COVID-19 cases rise, critic Bill Addison suggests 18 great places to eat outside from the just-released 101 Best Restaurants guide.When I briefly traveled through Sri Lanka several years ago, most of my meals were in the form of numerous small dishes of vegetables, curries and sambola — garnishes — and centered around a small mountain of rice. It’s like eating the Goldberg Variations: a central theme from which to explore and to which you constantly return. Try some parippu, eat some rice.
And that is where Baja Sub really shines — the vegetable side dishes that not only hold their own but often eclipse the main courses. Parippu, a curried lentil dhal, is smooth and creamy. The slivers of eggplant called moju are so cooked down and caramelized that they resemble spicy candy. Finely grated mallung, usually made with gotu kola, a leafy green in the parsley family, is made in this case with kale. Added coconut tempers any bitterness and makes for a nice palate cleanser.
Weekends give you even more territory to explore — the Saturday evening buffet allows diners to try hoppers, thin crepes made with coconut and rice flour that are shaped like a bowl, thicker at their nadir and delicately brittle near the edges. String hoppers, extruded into long, noodly strands, are perfect for sopping up savory curries.
“Petrichor” is a marvelous word that roughly captures the essence of the smell of the earth after a good rain, and it’s the sense memory triggered in me by a packet of lamprais. It’s an evocative peaty smell, like wet tea leaves, and ties every individual component of the dish together.We must not forget how spoiled we are in L.A. — and Baja Sub is a place that truly drives that point home.
Premil “Jay” Jayasinghe, owner of Baja Sub, stands behind the cash register. He also owns and operates a small Sri Lankan grocery store next door to Baja Sub.Most dishes $12-$18, Saturday evening buffet $19.99.10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday, Sunday; 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. No alcohol. Some off-street parking.
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