Tonight one of Silver Lake’s strip-mall gems will pour its last glass of wine and serve its last order of salsa macha wings.
city’s best — and most subversive — hot sauceis closing, but the spirit of the space will live on. The Ruby Fruit, a lesbian wine bar from some of Eszett’s staff, is set to open there in mid-February.
Mara Herbkersman, left, and Emily Bielagus, who both work at Eszett, plan to open their own wine bar, the Ruby Fruit, in the same space on Sunset Boulevard. “We’ve had some slow weeks and slow months, and with just the cost of everything going up, and the whole restaurant and food landscape changing, we just couldn’t make the numbers work when it came down to it,” he said. “We’re so happy for Mara and Emily to be able to do their own thing that I honestly feel that if all this was to get them to this point, it makes me feel like it was all worth it.”
“My first reaction was I was just devastated,” Herbkersman said. “I offered any solution I could possibly think of: I offered to quit. I said take my salary out of the equation, put me back hourly. I just wanted to do anything to keep them in it, and they said, ‘Thank you. But no.’” Los Angeles, for what it’s worth, has a thriving lesbian party scene: Lez Croix, Divorce and Bar Subaru pop up regularly. The Ruby Fruit’s owners themselves had thrown occasional lesbian nights at Eszett — called Leszette. Their pop-up evolved into a roving pop-up series called Big Al’s: a concept that felt at its heart like more of a dive bar than a wine bar, hence the pivot for the bricks-and-mortar, which takes its name from Rita Mae Brown’s 1973 novel “Rubyfruit Jungle.
The nurturing of staff is one of Herbkersman’s main objectives at the Ruby Fruit. “Having a space for women to work and to feel comfortable is one of my biggest goals,” she said. “I really want women to feel good at work. I want them to feel confident, to ask questions, to voice opinions, to share when they don’t feel well because they have their period and not be afraid of being looked down upon. That’s not to say that that occurred at Eszett, but it’s something that is pervasive in the world.
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