Overall, presentation took precedence over the fashion itself—and the current cultural climate took a backseat.
To be fair, the designers who chose to stage digital couture shows were severely limited by the practicalities of pandemic safety measures: even having a runway show with no spectators, filmed from a distance, was deemed too risky. Perhaps releasing a couture collection in some form, despite all the challenges, was a way for some brands to prove that they were stronger than the pandemic, and able to withstand the crashing economy.
This environment is especially tough for designers working at smaller houses. Speaking over the phone from Paris, Theyskens, who was appointed artistic director of Azzaro in February, recalled how uncertain he and his team felt over whether they would even be able to show when the pandemic began. Still, he went to Azzaro’s mirrored-lined atelier—still intact from when Loris Azzaro established it as his studio in the 1970s—and started working.
All this was done out of necessity, Theyskens explained. “You can only appreciate couture when you see it in real life,” he said. “Having a presentation for the clothes, seeing how it moves on the body when the person walks, what the look of it is.” When asked whether he thinks the industry will continue showing clothes remotely in the future, the artistic director did not hesitate.“I’m not sure people really want that,” he said.
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