The trailblazing chef behind NYC's vegetarian restaurant Dirt Candy brings top-notch vegan burgers and shakes to Tribeca with fast-casual restaurant Lekka (Via EaterNY)
Until Amanda Cohen opened Lekka Burger, whose vegan patties will make anyone want to go out onto a rooftop with a megaphone and declare them to be on par with the carnivorous fare at Shake Shack, she had never served a veggie burger. This wasn’t necessarily a huge omission. At modern vegetarian restaurants like Cohen’s Dirt Candy, chefs tend to shy away from fake meats — along the lines of theImpossible Burger — or anything overly manipulated.
A few minutes after ordering, you retrieve a guacamole burger, hop on an orange swivel stool at the blond-wood bar, and inhale. The burger smells of smoke and packs a crisp char. The texture inside is warm and soft, while a slick of guacamole imparts a fatty richness. Jalapeños add heat; onions add crunch; petals of cilantro give off a grassy perfume; and a Japanese-style milk bun acts as a pillowy conveyance mechanism.
— that’s only marginally different from the next one. That’s not the case with veggie burgers. Some are pleasantly coarse and mysteriously beefy, like By Chloe’s thin tempeh and lentil version. Others are wonderfully squishy yet toothsome, like the Superiority Burger. Once upon a time, April BloomfieldRestaurant veggie burgers, in short, serve as a chance to try something handmade from wildly eclectic ingredients — instead of defaulting to a pre-packaged Angus variety from a marquee supplier.
Be sure to consume the burgers quickly, letting their piping-hot temperature warm up your GI tract like chicken soup. Unlike an animal burger, whose juiciness and mouthfeel improve as it rests, every Lekka specimen I sampled deteriorates upon cooling. The complex flavors remain, but the soft, nimble texture turns a touch gritty.
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