Amid lawsuits, mold controversies, and inconsistent guidelines, cosmetic chemists sure think so.
We finally published our definition and laid out the truth as we know it about the ingredients in question: Sulfates' biggest risk is potentially causing some scalp irritation, while formaldehyde is a possible carcinogen if inhaled consistently. We’ve tried to be as specific as possible — only cyclic silicones are on our list; linear ones simply pose zero cause for concern — and to remain flexible.
The argument could be made that retailers are just trying to help consumers find the type of products they’re already looking for. No harm, no foul, right? Not so fast, say the scientists. “I feel like brands are really just falling victim to the misinformation and perpetuating it,” says cosmetic chemist
. “That does have an impact on consumers because, if they’re loyal to a brand, they’re gonna believe anything they tell them.”Even Koestline is wary of slapping a broad-strokes red flag on any type of ingredient. “I don’t like lists,” she says. “I think lists are so limiting and stop your brain from understanding what the hell you’re doing.
Plus, scientific understanding around ingredient safety is changing almost constantly. Set-in-stone lists don’t allow for flexibility based on the most recent findings, Koestline says, such as “ingredients that we perceived were harmful, but are not as harmful as we thought, or ingredients that we thought were totally fine, but we find out later on are harmful to the environment.”
Going back to the gluten-free water phenomenon, when there’s a popular narrative in any industry that implies certain ingredients are safer than others, no right-minded brand executive would want to risk the chance that their products would be viewed as toxic. If your product is not Clean at Sephora… is it Dirty at Sephora instead?Consumers, understandably, want to spend their money on safe products that actually work.
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