David Kamp Soundtracks His Cooking Sessions

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David Kamp Soundtracks His Cooking Sessions
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'We are making the best of our time up here, especially culinarily. But I won’t be one of those people who uses this pandemic as an occasion to give up on city life.' Read MrKamp's GrubDiet

“When lockdown began, I liked to cook to Cornershop’s lively, raucous new album England Is a Garden.” Illustration: Margalit Cutler With his book The United States of Arugula, David Kamp became one of the leading voices of the so-called food revolution, which, even now, seems to surprise the author and journalist. “I’m someone who loves food,” he says, “but I am not on the scene.” So it makes more sense that his new book, Sunny Days, is not about food at all.

Around 10:30 a.m., my son appears at my office/bedroom door with the tip-end of a breakfast burrito he has prepared and consumed the better part of. He knows that I eat very little during the day: some fruit, maybe a yogurt. This isn’t some Jack Dorsey-style, tech-bro, life-hack fasting stunt, just a peculiar pattern I fell into a long time ago, when I recognized that — for me, anyway — lunch is a time-suck and makes me logy and unproductive.

On to dinner. Tonight I’ve prepared rabo encendido, Cuban-style oxtail stew. We are not exactly flush right now, so one prevailing theme of lockdown has been cheap cuts o’ meat. The other day, my son improvised a damned good tikka masala out of some chicken thighs, yogurt, and whatever was in our spice cabinet. This evening, it’s oxtails.

Tonight, I serve my own version of rabo encendido — fairly traditionalist, with none of that pie-spice frippery — over yellow rice. It turns out aces, the meat slipping right off the bone, the sauce velvety. For our daughter, who is a pescatarian, I toss some tofu cubes in cornstarch, adobo seasoning, and olive oil, roast them on a sheet, and then simmer them in a vegetarian version of the same sauce.

Watermelon radishes are an easy way to impress friends while making little effort. You simply cut them open and they look like a psychedelic eclipse effect from the Pink Floyd laser show. With just a little more effort, you can further impress your friends by making quick pickles with the radishes. Just slice them thin and squish the slices into a jar of brine.

We collectively finish off a bottle of Ciauria Etna Rosso ’18 from Pietro Caciorgna in Sicily. I’m doing my level best to support my NYC merchant friends within my means, so I ordered a mixed case of affordable reds from Matt Franco, the dashingly handsome owner of MCF Rare Wine on West 13th Street. The Ciauria is a bargain at $20 a bottle.I wake up at 5:45. I regard the person in the mirror. My hair is starting to look like Elizabeth Banks’s as Jill Ruckelshaus in Mrs.

The chicken, too, was picked up at Whippoorwill Farm, though Allen Cockerline says he received this allocation of birds — “fresh-killed,” as my parents’ kosher butcher used to say — from La Belle Farm in Ferndale, New York. La Belle! I envision a farmyard in which elaborately plumed chickens strut about clucking “Gitchie-gitchie, ya-ya, da-da.”

Dessert is a blueberry pie that we bought frozen and unbaked from Freund’s, another farm stand that is doing the contact-free-purchase thing. By now you’ve sussed out that we go to so many farm stands because doing so supports a small local business, ensures quality, ensures safe shopping, and, above all, gives us someplace to go.

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