Dario Calmese makes history as first Black photographer to shoot Vanity Fair cover

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Dario Calmese makes history as first Black photographer to shoot Vanity Fair cover
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The milestone cover comes amid criticism that the magazine took so long to get here

“Calmese describes his cover concept as ‘a re-creation of the Louis Agassiz slave portraits taken in the 1800s —the back, the welts,” Jonesin her editor’s letter published Tuesday. “This image reclaims that narrative, transmuting the white gaze on Black suffering into the Black gaze of grace, elegance, and beauty."

The photo that became the new issue’s cover — a striking shot of Davis in a backward indigo dress — is a response to an 1863 photo of a slave titled “to decry what they considered Calmese’s use of anti-Black violence and shock value for a predominantly white audience.

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