In this month's review, we visit chef Ross Demers at Cry Wolf in East Dallas, which, low key, showcases Dallas' diverse and vibrant culinary scene.
Kathy Tranis a case study in dichotomy. In a city full of glitzy dining destinations, Cry Wolf earns accolades from a strip mall in gritty East Dallas. There’s a good chance you'll enjoy a dish with foie gras while Led Zeppelin plays in the background. Here, an ever-evolving menu showcases Dallas’ culinary talent with an effortless vibe.Kathy Tran
"I went to Flora Street knowing I was going to close it,” Demers recalls. “COVID was near when we closed, so I took those two years to get my brain straight after working for other people for so long.” “I take more shit for people not being able to get in here than anything,” Demers says with more laughter. “I can’t even get my parents in here.”Cry Wolf’s menu is in constant flux, which allows Demers and his team to play with new ideas and ingredients as they become available. The tightly edited menu doesn’t abide by traditional rules like “appetizers” or “entrees.
Cutting into the raviolo causes the deeply golden yolk to spill out while setting every visual synapse in your brain on fire. Each bite pits layers of flavors and textures in competition for your attention, be it the savory duck puree, the delicate pasta or the intensely rich duck yolk tying everything together.
“I think the Dallas dining scene knows who we are. The more culinary knowledge that comes to the dining public, they’re more cognizant of what they’re eating, and they’re eating something not just for Instagram moments. They’re here for a good meal.”Demers is also quick to point out that he has surrounded himself with staff who share his quest for service and creativity. Tim Case, who worked with Demers at Flora Street, is Cry Wolf’s general manager and sommelier.
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