Copenhagen Has Quietly Become a Pizza and Ramen Paradise

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Copenhagen Has Quietly Become a Pizza and Ramen Paradise
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While roaming Copenhagen last summer, we noticed something peculiar: There are so many pizzerias. Turns out, there’s a bit of a pizza renaissance in town.

hen you think of food in Copenhagen, you likely think of things like smørrebrød sandwiches, pickled herring, Michelin-starred gods like Noma, and theThe Danish capital has, indeed, become celebrated among the international culinary community thanks to a movement focused on innovative cooking, seasonality, and a dedication to ethical practices.

I asked bartenders and kitchen staff about it, hoping they’d tell me I was wrong, that there’s nothing remarkable about the abundance of pizza joints in town. But they confirmed my view. As Copenhagen’s food scene has grown into an world-famous hotbed of innovation and experimentation, pizza has exploded. I’d thought about this for almost a year, hoping to return and get a better understanding of. And so, with assistance from Copenhagen’s tourism bureau, I went back this summer to get a taste.

I especially loved the “Surf ’n’ Turf” slice—pepperoni, anchovies, garlic oil, and pecorino—but the house slice with cheese, basil, and tomato sauce was awesome too. As for whether these slices felt like home for me, a native New Yorker, well… maybe not so much. The undercarriage was a bit fluffy and focaccia-like in texture, unlike the traditionally thin and chewy version I know and love.

Back in Nørrebro, on the Jægersborggade, a mega-cool cobblestone block once considered among the city’s dodgiest, Naples-born Davide Laudato recently opened, a tasting menu focused on some of the more unusual flavors in traditional Italian fare. While not vegetarian, the restaurant has a “veggie mentality,” said Laudato, a relentless experimenter who makes all of his pastas, house snacks, and even limoncello by hand.

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