Cocktail Royalty Rolls Into New York

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Cocktail Royalty Rolls Into New York
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The Dukes martini is a London classic and often approached with the same care you might give an angry bulldog — equal parts respect and caution. Now a version of it is being poured at the Hotel Chelsea’s Lobby Bar. ROSimonson reports

A version of the fabled Dukes martini is being served at the Hotel Chelsea’s new Lobby Bar. Photo: Marcus McDonald For all of the martinis currently splashing around New York — espresso martinis and dirty martinis, martinis garnished with anchovies and martinis mixed with MSG — one of the world’s most revered renditions of the drink has remained largely missing.

The Dukes martini was created to appease the unreasonable demands of a longtime journalist. Stanton Delaplane, during his 50-plus years at the San Francisco Chronicle, was one of the most famous columnists in the world. Delaplane, who died in 1988, spent some of his final days at the Dukes Hotel, where he nightly asked for a very cold, very dry martini. Nothing that young Calabrese could do would fully satisfy the writer.

Nevertheless, it left an impression, and when Evans was putting together his menu for the Hotel Chelsea’s newly unveiled Lobby Bar, it was the first drink he added to a section called “Tributes,” versions of famous drinks invented by others, including the Tommy’s Margarita by Julio Bermejo and the Oaxaca Old-Fashioned by Phil Ward. At the top of the list, selling for a cool $26, is the Dukes martini.

So far, the drink has been a hit in New York. “It definitely resonated with a lot more people than I expected,” Evans says, recalling a group of eight that ordered a round of Dukes martinis for the entire table. “I was caught a bit off guard on that one.”

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