The London designer and sustainability pioneer works with recycled and organic fabrics, but also trawls warehouses and brokers deals with governments to buy, and later sell, surplus military stock.
, Raeburn also introduced Raefound, a capsule collection of original, unworn military pieces purchased from government offices in the U.K. and Continental Europe.“What could be more radical than making nothing?” said Raeburn in an interview, referring to the Raefound, items which he picks out himself and runs through quality control before adding his label.
He said consumers would often ask why they couldn’t just swing by the local Army & Navy surplus store and pick up similar items. “I’d tell them ‘Of course, please do!’ There are hundreds of thousands of pieces out there, clothing that already exists. Why not buy it?” Despite their vintage they’re certainly cool, with oversize hoods, places to store sticks and branches, and a delicate, pointillist camouflage print with flecks of khaki, green, and dark brown.Raeburn’s other military leftovers include featherweight silk scarf maps from the 1950s. Pilots and other military personnel carried them in case they found themselves behind enemy lines and needed to make a quick escape.
Those dresses hark back to Raeburn’s first collection in 2009 when he spun a 28-feet pilot’s parachute into eight pieces of clothing. Raeburn said more stand-alone stores could be in the pipeline, perhaps in Continental Europe while his various brand collaborations will continue, too. Of late he’s been working with Aesop on fabric bags to wrap or transport the soap and beauty products.Timberland describes its Earthkeepers by Raeburn footwear collection as representing “the highest level of eco-innovation,” with soles made from 75 percent renewable sugar cane and responsible natural rubber from trees.
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