Californians bet farming agave for spirits holds key to weathering drought and groundwater limits

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Californians bet farming agave for spirits holds key to weathering drought and groundwater limits
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Some California entrepreneurs and farmers are betting agave could be a promising crop for the state.

Leo Ortega and his wife walk around their property, surrounded by blue agave plants, in Murrieta, Calif., Tuesday, Oct. 17, 2023.

“When we were watering them, they didn’t really grow much, and the ones that weren’t watered were actually growing better,” Ortega said, walking past rows of the succulents. “We seem to have this insatiable thirst for agave, so why not have a domestically grown supply?” Doherty said. “I am kind of bullish on it.”

Agave isn't grown on a large scale in California yet, and it would take years for that to happen. But spirits, made by cooking the plant's core to produce sugars that are fermented, are proving popular, said Ventura Spirits owner Henry Tarmy, who distilled his first batch five years ago.Much like Mexico has, California is taking steps to protect its nascent industry.

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