How Benalla farmer Mark Foletta and Melbourne chef Stephen Nairn collaborate to source exclusive flavours
Stephen Nairn is adding a spoonful of “magic” honey to the jus for a dish of lamb sweetbreads at his double-hatted Melbourne restaurant Omnia Bistro and Bar.
When Nairn moved to Scott Pickett’s restaurant Estelle in 2016 to be head chef, Foletta brought him some cherrywood from an orchard he was pulling out. At the time, Nairn was experimenting with woodchips for a smoked duck dish in Pickett’s new restaurant Matilda. Using raw pumpkin Nairn created a dish with scallops and shellfish stock. “It shocked people,” he recalls. In a good way.Lately, they have been toying with aged vinegar, using whole-bunch syrah grapes Foletta grows, among several varieties. Foletta, who took the gong for excellence in diversification at last year’s Australian Farmer of the Year awards, makes a cabernet malbec, nebbiolo and pinot grigio under his Saffron Gramophone label.
“It’s all about finishing dishes with a delicate flavour,” he continues. “It adds a little luxury on the palate.”
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