Behind the Scenes of Louis Vuitton’s New High Jewelry Collection

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Behind the Scenes of Louis Vuitton’s New High Jewelry Collection
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Francesca Amfitheatrof’s more-is-more habits are fitting for a brand whose own defining word is certainly not “subdued.” Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for jewelry and watches dishes on interstellar inspirations, fairy tales, and a 1,758-carat diamond:

Amfitheatrof’s designs for both the brand’s fine jewelry collections and high jewelry have been vibrant and modern—she describes her technique as painting with gems. “I tend to use a lot of stones,” she says, and shies away from the typical construction of a statement stone surrounded by smaller diamonds. “I think because I’m not a gemologist, I’m a bit more radical about it.” Her design team was “perplexed” upon her arrival.

“No other house has branded a diamond,” declares Amfitheatrof; she credits Vuitton CEO Michael Burke, who personally approves each stone purchase, with the brand’s team of crack gemologists. Her own favorite piece from the collection is actually two: glittering bracelets with fraternal twin center stones, a diamond and Colombian Muzo emerald, dubbed L’Aventure, that can be worn together as a single cuff or split up, one on each wrist.

La Constellation d’Hercule Ring in white gold, yellow gold, tsavorites, diamonds, and sapphires; the sketch for the ring.is now a retail buzzword, but for Amfitheatrof it’s just how her brain works. Her father was the Russia bureau chief atmagazine, her mother did PR for Valentino and Armani; her paternal grandfather was the composer and conductor responsible for scoringfather was a Russian novelist who once dressed down H.G. Wells.

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