“It was a wild time, and we were selling a certain story…”
Ask Wine to define a “scene restaurant” and he’ll reply, “It’s the place where everybody has to be,” although what that means today in the helter-skelter, post-covid comfort-food era is anyone’s guess. “There’s a different definition of fun these days,” he says. “People want a good steak; they want a good pasta. Sure, you can get interesting food at a 14-seat place out in Brooklyn, but I don’t know where the warmth and the entertainment is in that.
Over the years, many tales about the Quilted Giraffe have taken on lives of their own: the time a wolfish Beatty appeared with Madonna on his arm; the night the Saudi arms merchant Adnan Khashoggi enjoyed his usual rack of lamb and a bottle of ’79 Petrus at table seven before skipping town as the Iran-Contra scandal broke; and the grim October evening when all of the doomed Wall Streets flooded into the house after the Black Monday crash to buy bottles of Bordeaux with their corporate cards one...
“Like most great restaurants, we had a lot of normal husbands and wives who were hoping to get laid too,” Wine points out. “It was a wild time, and we were selling a certain story, we were selling romance, we were selling fun.” In addition to handcuffs, Wine remembers providing a chauffeured Rolls-Royce for guests who didn’t feel like staggering home.
Up on the terrace, we could hear the sound of boat horns as the big cruise ships slid down the Hudson and out to sea. We flipped through a few more pictures: a young Morimoto wearing a Santa’s hat, Colicchio with hair on his head, and one cuffed couple after the next eating caviar bundles. The beggar’s purses were popular until the very end of the Quilted Giraffe’s run, and if Wine were starting out today, they’d be at the top of the menu, albeit with a cheaper brand of roe.
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