Beauty and Brine: Prince Edward Island Is an Oyster-Lover’s Paradise

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Beauty and Brine: Prince Edward Island Is an Oyster-Lover’s Paradise
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The tiny province delivers big on bivalves.

Down a dirt road lined with potato fields and farmhouses hung with brightly painted buoys, you’ll find the most charming seafood restaurant on Prince Edward Island. And that’s saying a lot because the island traffics almost exclusively in charming seafood restaurants.

“Lots of places with a location like this, they don’t focus on the food,” owner Paul Lavender, who helms the kitchen 110 days a year, likes to say. “But we want to match that view.”The sun took its sweet time sinking toward the horizon, and we did too.

Noye and his partner, Damien Enman, source wild-caught oysters from local fishers and farm their own, shipping directly to restaurants likein Montreal. They started the business in 2017, along with a no-frills oyster bar above the processing plant. Despite the gimmicky name, the feast offers a rare modern take on the local cuisine. It begins with a tour of the inn’s farm followed by an all-you-can-eat oyster happy hour featuring sweet-salty Fortune Bays and saltier Colville Bays from literally the bay next door. At communal tables, greens and grains from the farm and surroundings make startling appearances, like a delightful chowder sprinkled with beach wort, a sort of Maritime purslane.

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