Back in Black: Why the Tailoring World Is Making Suits in the World’s Most Rebellious Color Again

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Back in Black: Why the Tailoring World Is Making Suits in the World’s Most Rebellious Color Again
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Tailors chime in on the versatile shade and the materials that give it an upscale feel.

. “Until recently, I must confess that black had a repulsive effect,” he adds. But Husbands’s latest collection is marked by Serge Gainsbourg–worthy tailoring in jet corduroy and pinstripes. Black, it seems, is finally moving beyond its renegade reputation. “I don’t think you can pigeonhole it that way,” says Nick Ragosta of, which recently incorporated black into its usual palette of dusty neutrals.

In a practical sense, black does many things that other hues can’t. “It immediately doesn’t seem very corporate,” says Simon Crompton, theauthor and classic-menswear aficionado who recently has been sporting more of the shade himself. “Anyone in [a business] environment is going to be wearing navy or gray.” In suits or separates, then, black stands apart from the desk-jockey scrum.

“I think that a lot of men are looking for a black jacket and don’t know they are,” Martorano says. A black blazer can be surprisingly versatile, worn with everything from charcoal flannels to denim to tan cords, while providing a certain chic that standard blue often lacks. “Wearing a navy jacket with jeans,” Martorano observes, “you start to get the whole dad vibe, like a New York banker visiting the Midwest.

Discussing the decision to turn to the dark side, Stòffa’s Agyesh Madan says that, because of the deep shadows it creates when it drapes, moody black “tends to feel a little bit more, for lack of a better word, sexy.” There’s also a subtle punk rebelliousness in casually sporting a hue that’s still associated with the most formal of formal wear—and if there’s one lesson to be learned from music’s best dressed, it’s that such rule breaking is a winning recipe for sartorial sex appeal.

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