Read CathyHoryn's latest review out of MilanFashionWeek: 'The sense of being under intense pressure is one of the characteristics of our times. In one way or another, everyone feels it'
. There’s plenty of newness. Indeed, no one in the high-fashion sphere is better at raising the roof of anticipation than these two, and that’s partly because their ideas are not frivolous. Rather, they arise from the fundamentals of fashion — shape, proportion, a new way of looking at beauty and the past.“What I care about now is to give importance to what’s modest,” Prada said backstage afterward. “To value modest jobs, and not only what’s glamorous.
Designers have been borrowing styles from the laboring and professional classes for more than a century. Think of Coco Chanel’s maid’s collars and fishermen’s blouses in the years around the First World War. Think of how workwear influenced the radical designs of Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, who also did a show based on brides. As recently as February 2020, Demna of Balenciaga did a collection around power uniforms.
At a show attended by lots of celebrities — Dua Lipa, Sienna Miller, Letitia Wright, the Chinese singer-songwriter Cai Xukun — there will be a question of whom these modest “uniforms” are ultimately for. Another feature of our age is that luxury brands tend to have it both ways, and Prada will.
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