Read CathyHoryn's latest review out of ParisFashionWeek: 'It’s tough to focus on things, as Jonathan Anderson’s stunning collection for Loewe makes clear'
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Nina Ricci, Loewe, SchiaparelliPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Nina Ricci, Loewe, SchiaparelliPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Nina Ricci, Loewe, Schiaparelli
It’s tough to focus on things, as Jonathan Anderson’s stunning collection for Loewe makes clear. Gerhard Richter’s blurred paintings inspired fuzzy digital images of dresses printed on T-shirt dresses made of the most luxurious duchess satin. But the ambiguity doesn’t stop there. A turquoise cardigan that clings to the model is self-adhesive paper, like stick-on wallpaper, while a cropped light blue jacket has the plastic smoothness and precision of a Playmobil figure.
These and other designs in Loewe’s fall 2023 collection can be read as commentary: the faded and jittery dress images on the fragility of memory in the face of new visual sensations; the peel-off sweater as a symbol of mass-produced luxury and waste ; the flawlessly smooth jacket on our ability to manipulate our appearances, either digitally or cosmetically, and how normal that has become.But for Anderson and his design team, the main quest was finding modernity in fashion.
The brightness was hardly incidental. Many designers like to show at night, for the glamour of it, or in semi-dark spaces or with puffing fog machines. But Anderson felt it was important for the clothes “to exist in broad daylight,” he said. Placed around the room were vividly colored cubes of compacted confetti — the work of the artist Lara Favaretto, known for her “momentary monuments.
That was certainly the case with Harris Reed’s debut at Nina Ricci. He may have attracted stylists for big celebrities but every spray of tulle, opulent feathered puffball, and campy sex-bomb gag has been done a million times before and with more finesse. One hopes that Reed has more in his creative tank than this.
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