Some art directors take a dim view of brand expression under the coronavirus pandemic.
“To be honest, this crisis unveiled the poorness of today’s message in the fashion world. Brands and designers have been very generous in donations worldwide, but their social networks, being their voice, lacked a real point of view and seemed unaware of the moment,” lamented Riccardo Ruini, founder and director of the Riccardo Ruini Studio creative agency, which develops advertising campaigns for a range of luxury brands including Fendi, Bulgari, Gucci and Valentino.
Traditional fashion shows, done well, made a huge and lasting impact on these image makers, underscoring the power of vivid storytelling, theatricality and honest innovation. Lee Alexander McQueen was most frequently cited for his spine-tingling spectacles.
Last is Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton fall 2020 show. The set was a vertical backdrop of 200 characters dressed in costumes from the 15th century through the 1950s. A mix of dress of cultures, countries and times. The beauty of Nicolas’ clothes, the music and the set brought me to a flood of tears. It felt epic, brave and powerful coinciding with it being the last show of Paris [fashion week].
Watching musicians perform from their home has been moving even without the theatrics, and the audience. Artistic expression doesn’t need elaborate production to touch people, whether it is music, art, books, or fashion. I know now that we can live without a lot of things, but these are things the human spirit can’t live without.Best IRL show: My favorite show of all time is Alexander McQueen fall 2009. It was the only one that I’ve seen that could claim the definition of “show.
Best beyond fashion: Fashion could learn that there are moments when we either say something meaningful or it’s better to remain silent. Outside of the fashion world, I’ve seen a lot of the usual extremes of this time — either hyper-sweet or hyper-angry. Both annoying to me. Difficult to find balance.
At exactly five minutes to midnight, all the models from Ronald’s “Army of Love” opened their windows and stepped out onto the balconies, waving a white flag…surrendering symbolically to COVID-19. It was a plea for change and for new ideas. This compelling moment, filmed from the outside, went instantly viral on social media.
Beyond fashion: I’ve seen way too many shoots in people’s bedrooms and on their front doorsteps. I’m of two minds about this. In one way I want to not care about fashion again, as I have learnt to appreciate the real and smaller things in life. But on the other hand, I do want fashion to learn how to move on. I think technology might have a huge role to play in this.
Beyond fashion: I might be slightly biased, but I was particularly moved by a specific issue of Hanya Yanagihara’s T Magazine, where I am creative director. The April 19 Culture issue was comprised entirely of groups of people, ranging from the alumni of Antwerp’s legendary Royal Academy to a large assembly of Asian fashion designers working in the U.S. to the regulars at a local restaurant in SoHo.
What if instead of showing 50-plus looks three times per year in multiple cities, we really looked in detail at a single look in each city? What if we really explored and delved into the etymology of a single look in Paris, another look in New York, another in Seoul — just as McQueen and Knight devoted attention to the process behind a pair of looks and the transformation between them. We could explore each look though film, dance, poetry, as well as presenting it physically.
Beyond fashion: Since being in lockdown, I‘ve watched a lot of Netflix. I’ve found the instant access to content that has quality and a point of view has been interesting. Perhaps fashion needs a new platform of curation that is inclusive and exclusive with expertise that crosses all media platforms.
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