A young Black chef in complete command of his kitchen and himself

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A young Black chef in complete command of his kitchen and himself
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The Hemings & Hercules dinners at Post & Beam illustrate that point powerfully. Its dishes connect the diner to history but the full experience, hosted by a Black-owned restaurant and prepared carefully by a Black chef, grounds them in the present moment.

The history of American slavery is so weighty and dense that sometimes people like me — the descendants of enslaved Africans — try to avoid the topic.

Martin Draluck explains the historic inspiration behind his dishes to guests at Post & Beam’s Hemmings & Hercules dinner series. They were working on Fuss & Feathers, a dinner series at Hatchet Hall that explored early American foodways, when Draluck came across the stories of the enslaved chefs and decided to develop a dinner of his own in their honor.“Their stories aren’t well known,” Draluck says of Hemings and Hercules. “I thought it was a cool way to approach history that isn’t often told.”

Draluck’s work with Hemings & Hercules got another push in May when it was highlighted in an episode of Netflix’s “High on the Hog,” a series about the ways Black American cuisine transformed America. He introduced each course with a few words about its origin. Black-eyed pea fritters could be neatly pocketed and carried into the field, he explained. Fish and melon was one of Washington’s favorite dishes. Pepper pot — a stew made of beef, vegetables and peppers — was brought to North America through the slave trade and made into a distinctively Philadelphian dish by colonial Black women who sold it on the streets.

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