Ravi DeRossi’s newest project, called & Beer, goes all in on mushrooms.
on East 7th Street. The unusual name offers a glimpse at the original idea: The food would change, but always be designed to complement the beer selection. The first menu has proven so popular that DeRossi is thinking about making it permanent. The gist: mushrooms, lots of them. And no portobello burgers.
Instead, the ten or so items on the menu are listed with the mushroom that is most prominent in the dish: “Lion’s mane” is a gyozalike dumpling. “Oyster” is battered and fried, served with “ponzu hot sauce.” The early standout is the “Blue Oyster.” Xaltepec, serving here as the chef as well, cuts thick slices from a cauliflower-size cluster that he sears on high heat with a coconut-based oil the restaurant swaps in for butter.
The disparate elements are tied together by the star of the dish: peppercorn jus that Xaltepec makes by reducing dried shiitakes and porcinis, plus any lingering mushroom scraps in a giant stock pot until it concentrates into a deep mushroom demi-glace. It’s rich, almost gelatinous, and could easily be served alongside a $100 steak. But it instead amplifies the caramelized exterior of the blue oyster.
DeRossi says he talked to dozens of chefs about starting a mushroom restaurant: “Nobody wanted to do it.” It was around that time that Xaltepec started as executive chef at Avant Garden, where he had slowly begun integrating his own dishes into the menu and was intrigued by the concept.
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