An exclusive look inside Tao Group's latest opening, where peasant Italian food goes luxe.
“Meatball is one of those old-time Southern Italian comfort foods that started out way back when poor people had nothing to eat,” says Scamardella, whose parents were from Naples. “So they took a little bit of meat and put in five pounds of bread. And now it’s transformed itself with this ball of meat here in America. It’s just so much meat. We use Wagyu beef, which is really fatty. For us, the key is that we grind everything in-house. We make it all by hand.
When Scamardella talks about refining service, he’s referring to things like time-consuming preparations and. On a menu that also includes veal chop Parm, steaks, Dover sole piccata and langoustine scampi, he mentions two dishes that especially stand out to him. One is a whole salt-baked branzino that’s stuffed with thyme, fresh oregano and lemon.
“Cartoccio means in a carriage,” Scamardella says. “It’s steamed in the bag with local vegetables, a little lemon vinaigrette. The fish is really fresh. I look around in LA and see Chilean sea bass on menus. There’s so much fish around here. They’re going halfway around the world to buy a frozen fish. I don’t get it.”“I think at all different levels of restaurants, people like a little bit of a show,” Scamardella says.
“It’ll be a relaxed, cool, fun atmosphere but definitely not dancing on the tables or ruining the furniture that we spent like $3 million on,” he says. “That is not gonna happen again.”Without a DJ booth, Scamardella expects this Lavo to play music that’s “upbeat but not in your face.” Maybe, he says, there will be a mix of ’70s and ’80s rock and pop with some Europop mixed in.
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