Those classic Chinese restaurants serving sweet and sour pork and fried ice cream were a beloved part of many people's childhoods in Australia, including SBS News journalist Charis Chang. We dare you to try and read this story without feeling hungry.
Think about a classic Chinese restaurant and you can almost taste it; the lurid red sauces, the crunch of the spring rolls and the attention-grabbing sizzle of the Mongolian lamb.
As a young kitchen helper, I spent my childhood making sure cashew nuts were added to chicken stir-fries, tearing up lettuce to use as a bed for the sate chicken and lighting the small dish of flammable yellow lemon essence that accompanied it. While many might see cooking as a noble vocation, for many Chinese who started restaurants in far-flung areas of Australia, it was simply a matter of survival. And just because my dad was Chinese, it didn't mean he knew how to cook.When he bought his first business in his early 30s - a takeaway called Chopsticks - his only experience was a summer spent as an assistant chef at a restaurant in the tiny fishing town of Bermagui on the NSW south coast.
It was unbearably hot. There was no air conditioning and the exhaust fan was useless so Dad would come home every night blowing black soot out of his nose.
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