A License to Eat: The Pleasure and Nostalgia of Eating in UK Seaside Towns

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A License to Eat: The Pleasure and Nostalgia of Eating in UK Seaside Towns
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A writer revisits her childhood by indulging in the dishes she enjoyed at seaside UK towns as a kid.

There are some foods you only eat at certain times of the year. Birthday cake, mince pies with butter brandy at Christmas, chocolate eggs wrapped in foil at Easter, sausages barbecued black with dollops of potato salad at summer family gatherings.

Our first foodie stop was a trip to a “caff” on the high street that my boyfriend used to visit with his grandad. There’s an important distinction to be made between a “caff” and a “cafe”—the former being traditionally frequented by tradesmen and the working class, whereas a caf-fay caters to a more middle-class clientele. We ordered a slap-up full English each with lattes served in tall, clear glasses: faux sophistication at its finest.

When we arrived in Leigh-on-Sea, the atmosphere was buzzing—revelers with red-tinged foreheads and noses from the unexpectant sun filled the pub garden that looked out over the estuary, pint glasses filled with lager. Somewhat hesitantly, we ordered cockles in a polystyrene cup and seafood cocktail in pink sauce on a buttered bread roll washed down with our own pints.

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