Your first look at Nigo’s Kenzo, featuring an exclusive preview of the fall 2022 collection
Fashion history is quietly being rewritten in a clean, white atelier in Paris’s second arrondissement. Unlike the fashion scenes often shown on film, with haywire antics and chaos, theatelier is remarkably calm. No cross talk, no giant cups of coffee, not even music playing in the background. Thank Nigo, the brand’s 51-year old creative director who is preparing his debut men’s and women’s collection, for the positive, at-ease vibes.
The tiger is a brand signature that has been adapted many ways over the years. Nigo adds it to the back of a velvet cropped jacket in a '70s silhouette.His approach at Kenzo is a radical rethink of luxury, fashion, and streetwear—and maybe radically different from what you’d expect from a streetwear icon. When asked about the difference between street and luxury, he gives his longest and most complicated response.
And so instead of creating a collection that is markedly street or singularly luxurious, Nigo is taking a different path. He’s starting at the beginning of the Kenzo story. “Seeing the complete Kenzo archive, especially the early pieces from the ’70s, has kind of changed my perception about the entirety of the brand,” he says. “Previously my perception of it was based very much in the 1980s designer fashion boom that I experienced when I was young in Japan.
For his fall 2022 debut, flower prints and some of Takada’s own sketches from the 1970s are recreated on garments and accessories. Other ideas from the Kenzo archive, like Harris tweed tailoring and shawl-meets-snood collars, are re-introduced, while Nigo’s own obsessions like Ivy League style and Aka-e pottery appear as motifs. The silhouette is incredibly layered, not only literally, but with references that bridge East-West cultures. Several pieces reference the structure of a kimono.
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